Now that you know the different types of wicks and how to choose one, the next step is learning how to use the wick in your scented candle properly. There are a few basic techniques worth knowing for this. You can also run a burn test to make sure it performs as it should.
Preparing your wick and getting the most out of it
Once you have chosen the wick best suited to your scented creation, a few techniques will help it perform for longer and give you a better result. First, of course, you need to have chosen a suitable wick, particularly in terms of size.
When using wooden wicks, we strongly recommend adding stearin or beeswax to your wax.
This hardens a soft, oily wax and stops the wooden wick from going out. You'll get a better result and reduce the risk of the flame dying out.
Which way up to fit a wick
Fitting your wick the right way up optimises its burn. This rule is essential for beeswax creations, but matters much less with other waxes. Braided wicks (such as round or flat wicks) must always have their threads pointing upwards. The V-shaped structure on the flat face of a round wick should open towards the tip of the candle.
Use sustainer tabs at the bottom of containers
Metal sustainer tabs keep your wick upright at the bottom of the container. For moulded candles, the tab adds a valuable safety margin, protecting the surface beneath your creation as it nears the end of its life.
Centre your wick
Centring your wick properly in your creation means you won't waste any wax. Your candle won't tunnel and will burn evenly. Check regularly that your wick stays centred.
How do you keep a candle wick straight?
When pouring the wax into your container, we strongly recommend using a wick centring tool to help keep the wick steady in the container. Waxed wicks are the stiffest, so they are the easiest to keep straight.
Then use one of the following 3 solutions to secure your wick to the bottom of the container:
- Self-adhesive wick pads: handy and backed with a thin layer of felt, they grip better in containers whose bases are not completely flat.
- Paraffin sticky wax: these tacky sheets hold the wick tab firmly in place at the bottom of your containers.
- Pour a 1 mm layer of your wax into the bottom!
Your very first burn should last 1 to 2 hours. Let the melt pool form to avoid any problems.
Why trim and re-trim a candle wick?
Make sure you trim the wick to around 5–7 mm above the surface of your wax to avoid burning issues (mushrooming, black smoke, oversized flame, etc.). Remember: it isn't the wick that fuels your candle's flame, it's the wax!
The flame draws the wax up through the wick by capillary action. If the wick isn't trimmed short and clean, the wax can't reach the flame. This applies to every type of wick.
To trim it, ideally use a wick trimmer, or a metal tool that lets you dip the wick into the melted wax.
Just make sure you let your creation cool before trimming if you don't want bits of ash or wick left in the wax. It's much easier to clean up when the wax is hard and cold!
Do the opposite if you need to re-centre your wick. It's much easier to adjust a wick when the wax is soft and warm!
Trimming the wick and removing debris from the melted wax not only preserves the quality of your creation, it also helps you avoid any toxic fumes that could be released if you don't look after your wick properly.
Replacing the wick to finish a candle that no longer has one
To replace it, first extinguish your candle and let the wax cool. You can then use tweezers or a butter knife to remove the old wick.
Once the wick is out, cut a new one to the length you want and insert it into the candle. If the wax has hardened around the wick, you can warm it slightly to soften it before inserting the new one. Make sure the new wick is perfectly straight and that the flame cannot touch anything flammable when you relight the candle.
An easy burn test for your candle wicks
To carry out a burn test, first place your unscented creation on a stable, flat surface. Then light the unscented candle. Watch the flame to check whether it burns steadily and whether the wax melts evenly. If the flame flickers or the wax doesn't melt evenly, it may be a sign that you've chosen the wrong wick. Once you have observed the flame for 30 to 60 minutes, extinguish the candle.
What should you look out for during a candle wick burn test?
Where the wick is concerned, keep an eye on several things during a burn test, including:
The candle flame
It should be steady and should not flicker. If the flame is too tall or flickers excessively, it may be a sign that the wick isn't right.
For an optimal burn, it's important to keep the candle away from draughts that could make the flame flicker. You can also use a candle holder to keep the candle in place and stop it tipping over. Remember to air your room regularly too, but put the candle out first. This way you avoid any risk of fire and ensure your creation burns at its best.
We advise against blowing your creation out. Use a candle snuffer instead: it starves the candle of air, so it gives off less black smoke and soot.
A candle flame is divided into different zones of incandescence and temperature, easily visible to the naked eye:

(1) Candle body with a pool of liquid wax.
(2) Wick curving towards the edge of the flame, with a glowing tip.
(3) Blue zone:
- In the lower part of the flame.
- Usually glows only faintly.
- Temperature rises due to oxidation.
- Excess oxygen.
(4) Dark zone:
- 600–1000°C
- The bulk of the fuel vaporises.
- Low oxygen content.
- Carbon particles form and build up.
(5) Primary reaction zone:
- Very hot oxidation zone.
- Temperatures of up to 1400°C.
- Almost complete combustion.
(6) Luminous zone:
- Starts in the primary reaction zone and ends at the tip of the flame.
- The carbon particles glow as they continue to be heated.
- They give off a yellow light and burn away on contact with oxygen.
The wax
It should melt evenly around the wick. If the wax doesn't melt evenly, it may be a sign that the wick is too short or too long. There will probably be a little wax left on the rim of your container after burning your creation.
Wick position

The wick rises straight out of the candle and curves towards the edge of the flame, into the "incandescent zone", where it burns away completely at the highest temperature under the influence of oxygen.
Burn testing your candles, step by step
Testing your candles is an essential step in guaranteeing their quality, safety and performance. Here's how to go about it.
1. Trimming the wicks
Trim the wicks to 5–7 mm above the surface of your wax. A well-trimmed wick is essential for an optimal, safe burn.
2. Location and set-up
Place your candles on a flat, heat-resistant surface, at least 10 cm apart. Choose a spot away from draughts and within sight of your work area, so you can keep a constant eye on them throughout the test.
3. Lighting and first observations
Light your candles and note the time you lit them. Watch closely how the wick and the flame behave as the candle burns.
4. Check after 2 hours
After 2 hours, examine the melt pool, the appearance of the wick and the behaviour of the flame:
- Ideally, the melt pool should reach the edge of the container.
- Note any soot or carbon build-up on the wick.
5. Check after 4 hours
After 4 hours, check the melt pool and the flame again, then extinguish the candle. Here are the key points:
- The melt pool should reach the edge and be about 1 to 1.5 cm deep.
- If the melt pool is too deep or there is excess soot, the wick may be too big.
6. Repeat until the very end
Let the candle cool for at least 5 hours, then repeat the checks above for each burn cycle until the candle has burned down completely. This method lets you assess the wick's performance over the candle's entire lifespan, as its behaviour can change over time.
Ready to get the best from your wicks
You now have everything you need to keep your creation's flame burning in the best possible conditions. Remember to test your wick and look after it throughout the life of your homemade candle. Having problems? Learn how to identify and fix the most common candle wick problems.