Fragrances are not set in stone. Like any olfactory creation, they naturally evolve over the years. These adjustments affect the entire industry and are part of the normal life cycle of a fragrance.
In our previous article, we looked at best practices for using fragrances and some of the phenomena that can occur when you work with them. It is just as important to know that fragrance compositions can also change over time.
Every change serves a specific goal that our teams pursue: to guarantee fragrances that comply with current regulations, are safe to use and always live up to our quality standards.
A fragrance that evolves is not a fragrance of lower quality. Quite the opposite: these adjustments allow us to keep offering fragrances that are carefully controlled, up to date and compliant, while staying true to their original identity.
What is a reformulation?
A simple definition
In perfumery, a reformulation is a change to a fragrance’s composition, made to preserve its identity as closely as possible while adapting it to new constraints such as regulations, safety or the supply of raw materials. Our teams may need to modify, replace or remove certain raw materials.
Minor or major reformulation
In the vast majority of cases, these are minor reformulations, with no noticeable impact on the fragrance. Our teams simply fine-tune certain balances to stay compliant, while keeping the scent profile intact.
Less often, some changes can be more pronounced. For example, a fragrance may contain a large proportion of one particular raw material. If the regulations lower its usage limit or ban it altogether, our teams then have to rethink that balance. This can lead to a more noticeable adjustment of the fragrance, while still aiming to stay as close as possible to its original signature.
Preserving the olfactory DNA
With every reformulation, our teams work with precision to reproduce the original fragrance as faithfully as possible. The aim is to preserve its character, its balance and its signature.
Why are these changes necessary?
Strict regulations
Fragrance compositions are subject to strict international regulatory frameworks, in particular the IFRA standards (International Fragrance Association) and European legislation. These frameworks are revised regularly to incorporate the latest scientific findings and keep safety requirements current.
Tightly regulated raw materials
Some fragrance substances may be subject to restrictions, dosage limits or phased bans. Formulas then have to be adjusted to ensure regulatory compliance, while preserving the olfactory integrity of the fragrance.
Natural variability of raw materials
Raw materials, especially natural ones, can vary depending on the harvest, the weather or their availability. Our teams adjust the formulas to maintain consistent quality.
How does this affect your fragrances?
In most cases, no noticeable change
Most reformulations are imperceptible. The fragrance keeps its usual scent profile.
Sometimes, slight nuances
In some cases, subtle differences may appear. This might be a slightly softer note or a different intensity.
Possible changes in appearance
You may also notice a change in colour or appearance. These variations are normal and affect neither the quality nor the performance of the fragrance.
What should you do when a fragrance is reformulated?
If you use our fragrances as part of a professional activity, there are a few steps you need to take to remain compliant with the regulations and to guarantee the safety of your own products.
Update your regulatory documents
When a fragrance is reformulated, its associated documents change too. It is therefore essential to download the latest version of the safety data sheet (SDS), available on each product page, together with the updated IFRA information where applicable.
The version number and the date the document was updated are given at the top of the page in the Word file.
Use these documents to check that your creations comply and, if necessary, to update your own regulatory files.
Check your labelling
A reformulation can lead to changes in the mandatory statements, particularly regarding allergens or hazard pictograms.
We recommend that you check your labels and adjust them if needed, so that you remain compliant with current regulations.
Update your notifications if necessary
If you have notified your products to the competent authorities, for example through the CPNP portal for cosmetics, an update may be required depending on the changes made to the fragrance.
It is your responsibility to make sure that your notifications remain accurate and up to date.
Test your finished products
Even though most reformulations have no noticeable impact, we advise you to run new tests on your finished products.
This lets you check the longevity, scent throw and overall performance of the fragrance in your specific application, so you can guarantee consistent quality for your customers.
Our commitment to preserving quality
Perfumers working to stay true to the original fragrance
We pay close attention to every fragrance, from its creation to any later changes. Our priority remains the same: to offer you fragrances that are true to their identity, safe to use and compliant with the strictest standards in the industry. This work involves many trials, meticulous adjustments and in-depth expertise in raw materials. The goal is clear: to preserve the fragrance’s DNA while adapting it to new constraints.
Testing and approval before release
Before it is offered again, every reformulated fragrance undergoes strict checks and approvals. These steps guarantee that the fragrance meets our standards of quality, safety and performance.
Support when you need it: advice and close alternatives
We are here to support you through these changes. Our customer service team is on hand to answer your questions, point you in the right direction or suggest close alternatives if needed.
You can get in touch with us through our online form.
Transparency with our customers
Because trust is essential, we have set up a notification system to let you know when a fragrance is reformulated. If you have already bought an affected fragrance (excluding the 30 mL size), you will be notified so that you can update your safety documents if necessary.
Make sure you have accepted cookies so that you receive our notifications.
If you have already declined them, scroll to the bottom of our website and open the “Preferences cookies” section.
We are committed to communicating clearly about these changes, so that you can keep using our fragrances with complete peace of mind.
Key takeaways
Ultimately, reformulation is an integral part of a fragrance’s life. Behind every change lies meticulous work to preserve the balance, quality and olfactory identity of each fragrance, while meeting regulatory requirements and keeping pace with changes in raw materials.
To help you better understand the world of fragrance and make the right choices, our articles are here to guide you. You will find tips, explanations and resources to deepen your knowledge of fragrances, their composition and their everyday use.
